2 in 1 Out Hotend Kit Compatible with Geeetech A10M A20M 3D Printer Reduce Clogging or Jamming 1.75mm Filament 0.4mm Nozzle Extruder (2 in 1 Out)

Works perfectly for my Geeetech A20M. No idea why the other reviews mention the cables being too short. User error maybe? The wires tuck inside the bracket and go through the slots in the back. The wires are the same length as the original, well for the A20m atleast. Made a few prints so far. Everything seems to be working good. No complaints at this time.

The new heater cartridge has cables that are too short as others have shown. That's not an issue if the old heater cartridge still works correctly. I purchased this because of a long story with a massive clog and broken thermistor wires. The assembly comes as a monolithic heat break instead of the 2 individual heat breaks. That makes assembly quite easy If I were to have to clean out the hot end again. I was having issues with a minor clog but the included Teflon tube couplers are of high enough quality that I didn't have to fight the tube to pull it out a few times. The issue ended up being a loose extruder tensioner and a very dusty extruder pinion, (not sure what to call the gear that contacts the filament). That caused the extruder teeth to slip. I'll have to do more testing but this made my non functional printer into something that actually works. Great deal.

This was an exact replacement for my Geeetech A20M. Mounted it up

This was un usable as it was missing the extrusion block end plugs and retaining screws

Works great

The wires coming off of the heating element are way too short a good two to three inches shorter than the original wires I tried orienting the hot end opposite of how it came from the factory so I would have a shorter wire run but they were still about an inch too short so ended up having to extend them. Also the nozzle that came on it had a burr at the end and kept snagging on prints and the thermistor reports around 10 to 15° cooler than it actually is so initially had a ton of stringing and fused movable parts until I figured that out.

Hotend Heater Wires are Way Short. Every replacement or new hotend I've ever purchased that came with a heater had wires long enough to connect them somewhere. Now I'm not using this on an a10M or a20m. But a modded printer. Either way, they should be longer. These are just long enough that they will leave a huge splice right next to the print nozzle, which could possibly cause the carriage to jam from too much bulk or weight, or just get caught on a print itself. Wire is CHEAP!!! Why not send a hotend with good wire length? If you were going to cheap out, then why not drop the price and leave the heater out since it's basically worthless as is?

I purchased this in the hopes of trying to retrofit a 3-to-1 switching head on a custom 3D printer.First impressions: the item appears to be machined ok, but there are some questionable component and design selections.First, this is a mixing hotend so there is no fancy switching routine to cook into your gcode.Now the bad news:-The heat breaks are not really heatbreaks... its just s solid one piece break with a relatively thick body tube (so it will mostly transfer heat rather than mostly break the transmission-The mixing chamber is machined by drilling a hole across the heatbreak outputs, and then plugging the ends with grub screws. Thats like 2 right angles, plus another right angle to get into the nozzle. Expect turbulent flow.-There is a tiny (i.e., 4mm x 1mm) brass restrictor plate at the output of each heatbreak, with very tiny holes in it... which is why you keep hearing about this guy jamming/clogging up.The worst news of all: the way they've assembled it and the quality of the grub screws, its nearly impossible to disassemble it without destroying/stripping the screws... so forget about trying to "upgrade" it. That information cost me $40 to get... you get it for free LOL.After I lost some of the grub screws, I tried drilling them, and the rest of the project kinda went down the tank from there...